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  • Building the Tundra- By Joe Adnerson

Building the Tundra- By Joe Adnerson


Building the Tundra- By Joe Adnerson

Here you will find a New Toyota Tundra Highlift during the build progress. From start to finish we will show you how and what it takes to build this Highlift truck.

Product used:

  • #58416 Toyota Tundra Highlift Kit
  • #53957 Highlift Multifunction unit
  • 4ch Radio (Futaba Attack Ebay Score)

Tools Required

  • #2 Phillips
  • Tamiya Side Cutters
  • Hobby Knife
  • Needle Nose Pliers
  • Calipers
  • Decal Scissors
  • Extra Thin Needle Nose Pliers
  • Soldering Station
  • Metric Allen Wrench set
  • Hot Glue Gun
  • Airbrush
  • List will continue....
Supplies
  • CA Glue
  • Extra Thin Cement
  • Paint
  • Solder
  • Zip Ties
  • Primer
  • Assorted Sandpaper
  • Lots of Caffeine
Modification Status
  • Steering Servo -Completed
  • 3rd Brake Light -Completed
  • Snowboard rack -Completed
  • Suspension lift -Completed
  • Adding 2.2 Tires/Wheels -Completed
  • Running Boards -Completed
  • Mirrors -Completed
  • Fender Flares -Completed
  • Snorkel -Completed
  • Decals -Completed
  • More...


We open the box to check out our build

Stop!!! Before you continue you need to decide are you going to use the supplied metal bearings or ball bearings. You will get better efficiency with ball bearings but at a cost to your build budget.

Make sure you Threadlock EVERYTHING it says to, ThreadLock is included in the kit!

Steps 1 & 2



Setting up 3Speed gears, be careful not to loose any e-clips!

Steps 3 & 4



Assembly of gearbox plates, takes a bit to get all gears and shifters together to fit in the shaft holes.

Steps 5 & 6



make sure you lube the gears before you assemble the sides!

Steps 7 & 8



Make sure your spur/pinion gear mesh is correct to avoid binding or slop

Step 9



Chassis Rails are added, I did install the rear supports but they will be removed later during the MFU install.

Steps 10 & 11



Mounts for dampers and leaf springs added. I did not install the from chrome bumper as instructed, it's being painted.

Step 12



Grease the gears and threadlock the three screws that hold it together

Steps 13 - 16



Assembly of Axles, uprights and linkages.

Steps 17 - 18



Assembly of leaf springs on axles

Step 19



Assembly of front Axle on to the chassis

Step 20



Assembly of rear axle with rear steer lockout.

Step 21



Assembly of dampers

Steps 22 - 23



Assembly of rear axle and dampers on chassis.

Steps 24 - 27



Assembly steering/shifting servos


As you can see the above pictures do not follow the instructions. The instructions call for you to mount the steering servo on the side and add linkages. This will help you if you plan on adding rear steer down the line. I like to mount both servo's together and get rid of some slop due to long linkages. By swapping the side the shift servo is mounted to and mounting the steering servo there instead, all you need to do is add some small spacers between the servo and its mount (approx 5mm). You will then get the clearance you need. You will need to add a much smaller linkage between the steering servo and the steering ball end (Approx 40.58mm). **This is a MOD**

Step 28




Assembly of rear lockout and right side of battery holder

Steps 29 - 30



Assembly of left side battery holder



Assembly of fuel tank blank, I moved this from left side to right. Since the steering servo is upfront and I will be using the MFU later it will give me a filled undercarriage on both sides.

Step 31



Assembly of Transmission skid plate

Make sure H4 is facing correct direction per instructions on page 17

Steps 32 - 34



Assembly of Electronics tray



Assembly of running boards



Assembly of Bed body mounts

Drivers side rear mount of running board is attached by magnet so you can swing the running board out of the way for Battery removal.

Notice:

At this point it may seem a bit jumpy as I will be not only building the Tundra but installing the MFU. So you may notice certain things that are not included in Tundra Manual or mentioned in either.

Step 38



Assembly of Front Guard and Lights

This is a optional step as you do not need a guard if you wanted a different look. Also note the MFU symbol on manual as lights would be added here.

Steps 39 - 40



Assembly of Wheels/Tires

If you plan on painting wheels or beadlock rings for a different look do it now or before gluing tires.



Assembly of rear Body hinges

How to use your box as a cheap spray booth



Use either top of bottom of Tundra box



Mark center to cut both sides



cut both sides



fold where you cut the sides



tape it to hold shape



cut open front



Your new paint box



ready to airbrush



Let's Mask!



Ready to go!

Step 41



Tailgate painted and trimmed



Bed painted and trimmed



Cab painted and trimmed

Step 42



Choose your grille style and install it



Rubber trim added to grille

Step 43

**Note shown with addition of MFU lighting



adding headlights



Headlight



Use adhesive hooks supplied



Step 43 completed

Step 44 -45



Adding bumper, tailights and exhaust



Step 46


Mount tailgate and lightbar

Step 47

I will not be adding mirrors at this time in build. Look for them after body assembly.


3rd brake light



3rd brake light after adding decal



Adding a Mod, drilled hole in body and plan on adding a LED to light up 3rd brake light



Wiring Diagram for 3rd Brakelight



Working 3rd Brake Light finished



Door Handle glued on



Wipers Glued

Step 48

**Note shows step including MFU lights installed


Wiring bed (Used hot glue and wire ties to keep wires in place. Light bar harness has heat shrink tubing to keep wires clean and safe.



Mounting bed and routing wires



Bed finished



Rollbar wiring

Battery Holder

**How the Battery is removed and inserted


Rear mount is magnet pull down



Rotate running board toward you

Once pulled all the way out you will have access to Battery Compartment

MFU tips

  • Best to install as you build
  • Take care in routing wires, if you plan ahead you can make a clean install and avoid using bundles of Zipties
  • Heat Shrink Light Leads to stiffen them up and a cleaner look on exposed areas
  • If you mount your steering servo up front you can move the blank tank to other side so MFU controls will even out the under chassis (see Steps 29 - 30)
  • You can spray the insides of windows black to hide the MFU from view
  • Use the wire labels, makes it easy to trouble shoot or move things around
  • More to come

MFU Steps



Adding the Vibration Unit

If you plan on adding the MFU this is best to install before you get the chassis rail assembles together.



Mounting the Speaker Box


Mounting the rear bed body mounts over the speaker box



Labeled and connected control leads

Finished Shots

Well the truck is pretty much finished as far as factory assembly. I hope you enjoy the finished images, now on to the other Modifications.


Front grille with lights


Lower shot of brush guard


Side shot of grille


Stock tires and wheels


Exhaust with weights for MFU vibration


Mirrors and door handles


Rubber tow mirrors will take abuse


front skid and front diff cover


Rear diff and axle


Rollbar lights and 3rd brake light.


Chrome running boards with rubber inset


Side shot


Rear shot


Rear side shot


Front shot


Front left


Front right

Snowboard Rack **MOD**

The Tundra comes with different options. You can add the snowboards to a roof rack and use cab lights instead of using the rollbar/lights. But what do you do if you want to use the rollbar and still have the snowboards? I decided to mount them in the bed and create something sturdy and useful for this function.


Boards on the mounts


Boards are easily removable


Here you can see one board removed.


Finishes of the rear bed nicely

With the use of some old Tamiya bushings, mounts and threaded Rod I was able to create something that is not only useful but clean and sturdy. Each mount is bolted to the bed and thread locked. Use of small bungees hold the boards securely but allow for easy removal. Currently looking for small rubber tube to wrap a portion of the bar to protect the underside of board from rubbing.

Suspension Lift **MOD**

The Tundra comes setup for stock 1.9 tires and wheels. I wanted to add to 2.2's to increase the ground clearance and give it a mean stance. To do this you have 2 choices either lift the body or the suspension. I'm not into body lifts and it comes stock with a bit of one already. So you will need to add some type of spacer between the axle and leaf springs. This will also require longer screws to make up for the distance.


Shot of right side lift


Complete Axle Lift

Spacer: Aluminum standoff (7mm) Screw length: 3x##mm

**Note this mod also requires you modify the running boards to get clearance for front wheels

Running Board **MOD**

Since we are lifting and adding 2.2's we will have problems with the running boards hitting the front tires. You have two choices either ditch the running boards or move them back a bit. I'm opting to move the back. Front mount uses the screw hole for the body mount l-bracket and 2 standoffs. Since the left side is hinged with a magnet to get access to the battery, it will be a bit different then the right. By adding a pin and using the magnet to help secure the pin during operation I still keep the use of easy battery removal. Right side just bolts on the front and rear with the same brace.


moving the front left back


This is where it gets creative


Simply slide down and away


Easier side


Front moves back


Rear bolts to a brace

Spacer: Aluminum standoff (XXmm) Bracket: **x**

2.2 Wheels and Tires

Now that we have the suspension lifted and running boards moved we can add the wheels and tires


mounted


rear clearance


New front clearance



Mirror Blinkers **MOD**

I noticed that the Tundra came equipped with Tow mirrors but it had no blinkers? I also noticed that on the lens tree there were lens' that were made for this purpose? Maybe it was not meant to be.... Right, so we are now modifying the mirrors each to have a blinker.


cut a bit of inner ledge so you can drill straight in


Make sure it's flush


I used a pinvice to start to make sure my first hole was right on


Take it slow so you do not brake through the rubber on the thin areas


take it all the way through


Drill back the opposite way slowly


Chuck up a drill while the bit is still in take it nice and slowly to ream out the hole a little more.


I used a single strand of 22ga wire from a cat5 cable and fed it through the whole


Once my one wire is through I solder it to my 2 leads from the LED and use it as a pull wire


Pull your wires through slowly


Pull your wires and leave enough slack for now


Tape off end of mirror


trace the lens


Cut smaller than you mark, you can always cut more


Look from inside


After painting lens (if you choose) glue lens to outside of mirror


Look from outside




another look




Drilled small hole through for wire




Wiring it into front blinkers




A look at wiring in front cab area




Diagram on how to wire into the MFU harness




Mirror mounted on outside with 2-sided tape

Testing the Mirrors

Fender Flares and Snorkel **MOD**

These were Designed by lowslowTJ of Scale4x4.org, you can find them for sale soon at http://rpphobby.com

They are made from black Resin and require very little sanding, primer then the finish color.

For my build they were primed the painted black then a covering of TS-82 Black Rubber for color. I added a bit of Tan to the grill on the snorkel to help off-set the detail.


After a light sanding, Tamiya primer is added (two coats)


After primer drys a light sanding and a coat of black. After black drys, two coats of black rubber(TS-82). After drying a light sanding and clear coat on top. I wanted to keep some texture so it looked like semi-soft rubber


Used the same process on the snorkel


Installed Flares using shoe-goo and a few small pieces of 2-sided tape to hold the flares until the shoe-goo dried.


Snorkel installed same way as the flares

Thanks to lowslowTJ, for some great craftmanship!

Decals

Thanks to http://www.vinyl7.com for some great work. They worked with my small details and put out a emblem that was far better than I hoped. If you need scale detail Vinyl you know where to look.

When I was thinking of building the Tundra, the theme kept heading up into the mountains. With snowboards and the rugged looks, it had to be a Forestry truck. enlisting the help from Vinyl7.com would pull the whole build together.

I needed a forestry emblem on the doors, and some decals for the bed. My needs were very specific and Vinyl7.com worked with me to get the look I was needing.


to layers of vinyl in one decal set off the emblem


using the same decal from the side the tailgate is finished


decals matching the color of the emblem fit right in place.

Thanks to vinyl7.com, for putting up with me and creating some great details.

Video of some runs

Adding a winch **MOD**

Updated 4-1-09 With the new pushguard on the Tundra, winch mounting is a bit tricky. After some planning the best way to make it clean/stock was behind the guard.

By using a dremel and notching both the plastic on the bar and metal of skid, you can sandwich the unit in there. It makes for a clean install and you don't have to hide the winch assembly behind the grille.

From the side you can see it's tucked in tight


Since I have the MFU and it used all 4channels, I opted for use of a 2nd remote to control the winch. (I will post pics of it later)
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