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Modifying the CC-01 Chassis By: Joe Anderson

This is a continuation of the "Building the CC-01 Chassis" FOUND HERE.

Ok, so in stock form the CC-01 has been completed. Now we can turn up the heat and get moving on some modifications. What's in store? I guess we will start to see as it all unfolds.

Losing the body.
- I'm replacing the lexan body with a ABS hard body that is half custom made.
Steering, the biggest complaint on the CC-01 is the steering in stock form.
- I'm going to tighten it up and make it super smooth.
Front Suspension, not enough travel.
- I'm going to lengthen the front arms and get some more travel.
More to be added...

Steering Modifications:

The stock steering consists of a servo being mounted in the chassis and connected to a bell crank type system. This system transfers downward through a plastic tube, with a plastic rod. In stock form, the plastic rod has some slop in the tube and it only gets worse as the tolerance decreases with age.

GPM does make an aluminum replacement to the plastic rod, but still utilizes the plastic tube in the chassis. Either way, the same dilemma exists because the plastic tube will still wear away, causing slop between the parts.

It was considered to try and mount the servo and the linkage underneath the chassis. This would not be my first choice because the underside of the chassis is very detailed, and it would be difficult to have the servo horn come through the chassis in the right place. Along with the possibility of the servo and linkage being damaged or broken off if they caught on the terrain, the "scale look" of this chassis would be greatly compromised.

I decided to use the existing tube and remove any tolerance issues. By drilling the top and bottom of the steering tube with a 10mm bit just enough to press a bearing in from each end. Do not drill all the way through the tube, a step is needed for each bearing to sit on. This will allow me to use a 5mm threaded tube from the TXT-1/Juggernaut center transmission.

1050 ball bearings x2

5mm x 39.5mm threaded shaft.

Shot of stock top of tube.

Shot of the bottom of tube drilled out.

Top bearing pressed in.

Bottom bearing pressed in.

5mm dia x 39.5mm long threaded shaft.

In order to get the arms to not spin while screw to the tube, I needed a key to create that bond. I placed the tube in a vice while using a dremel metal cutting wheel to slice groves in each end of tube.

I then heated one end of the tube and quickly screwed an arm to it tightly. This melted the plastic on the arm to the slots I keyed into the shaft. With a tight screw and the key these will not move at all.

This is a shot of the top after everything is mounted up. I'm still doing some adjustments until everything is finalized.

You can see the bottom is not really changed, at least in looks. I spaced the bottom with two 850 bearings, so the bottom arm does not rub against chassis.

Getting more travel in the front suspension.

A wish for many RC drivers is that the CC-01 had more travel in the front suspension; but with the short arms and molded wheel wells there is only so much one can work with. However, by using parts for the TL-01 Long Arm Conversion Set (#53467) we can increase the suspension travel without increasing the front width (stance) of the CC-01.

So... let's get started. Here's a list of the parts you'll need:

Item #50966 TL-01LA M Parts (Sus Arm) x1

Item #50964 TL-01LA Front Upright x1

Item #50963 TL-01LA Front Hub Carrier x1

Item #9405351 Metal Bag: 58089/65 (You only need 2pcs of the 3x25mm Spacer tubes)

Item #9804183 Wheel Axles x1

Item #50883 Drive Shaft Set (39mm) x1

Item #53029 1150 Sealed Bearing Set x2

Item #50882 TA04 King Pin Set x1

Item #50588 2mm e-clips x1

3x45mm Pins x2

3x25mm Pins x2

Here are some pictures to show the difference of stock arm(back) and TL-01LA arm(front).

Here is the Spacer tube and pin. Since the pin is smaller than the stock CC-01, we need to insert a spacer. You will need to file or dremel the arms a bit for clearance.

The trick here is less is more, you do not want binding and you want to stay away from slop. Take a little off of both sides and test fit and repeat. Remember you can not add back what you have removed, go slow.

After spacer is inserted and arm is fitted, insert the pin.

Secure arms with the 2mm e-clips.

Make 2 upper arms (34.5mm length).

Assemble knuckles.

Secure knuckle assembly to arms with the 3x25mm pin.

Secure knuckle assembly with the 2mm e-clips.

Finish both sides.

Assemble arms to front.

Now that I have more travel in the front due to longer arms, I'm in the need of longer shocks. I will be using 1.55 wheels and tires from RC4WD, so the front wheel wells will need to go in order for both of these to fit. Using a dremel with a plastic cutoff wheel, I cut out the top fender on one side first.

The shocks will be longer and the stock mounts are now gone with the removal of the wheel well, so I will have to create a brace/mount for the shocks. I will also be incorporating a front body mount into this as well. Using some automotive stainless steel brake line I came up with a concept and started bending. I made use of existing screw holes in the CC-01 chassis.

Duplicated the design and made the other side.

I messed with soldering up the cross joint, but was not happy nor trusted the strength for 2 shocks and the body mount. So I opted to bolt it together.

Another shot of the assembly

Body mount all setup and ready.

Painted with gunmetal.

Used a angle off the battery compartment.

shaved down the right side threaded spacer before mounting it.

A look at the wiring so far.

From here on we will be skipping around as I work on certain things while others dry. This will keep it more updated, but please look around after where the mods started for updates.

Rearend

Bringing this build full circle is going to require a complete custom built rearend. As with most of my builds, I wanted something I really have not seen done before or sometimes my take on a subject. So with that said, we are aiming towards a stakebed truck.

Bed is made from :

Thin 1/8 plywood Aluminum C-Channel on the sides Aluminum angle on the rear So I needed to stretch the rear of this chassis and axle.

I used threaded spacers for the front mounts in the stock locations.

A look with the bed on.

Rear needed to be extended so I could attach the rear body mounts and a bumper.

With bed on.

By drilling two holes in the rear of chassis and inserting 2 TXT-1 Lower links, I was able to get the length I needed. Drilling holes on the side of chassis and through existing holes on the links I was able to slide a bolt through to secure the links. I also added a cross beam inside for extra strength and to keep the links in place.

By cutting out a bit of the rear wheel well and using some leaf spring mounts I created some shock mounts..

I used some more of the TXT threaded shafts for links on this vehicle. They matched the wheelbase I was looking for, a custom driveshaft will be in the works later. As toy can see I have chosen to mount the rear shocks directly to the rear lower links.

Wheels & Tires

I have always been a fan of RC4WD products, but have never used their 1.55 wheels and tires. I have always opted toward the 1.9 size, but this build is going to be different. So with RC4WD in mind I decided on the 1.55 Steel stamped beadlocks and Mud Thrashers

Finishing Touches

I'm still far from finishing, but these are more for aesthetics.

Stakebed trucks have wood fences around the perimeter of the bed, except for behind the cab. The cab is generally protected by a heavy duty metal framed mesh so as not to allow cargo items to smash against the rear window. This guard I made from automotive brake line that was bent and soldered together. The mesh is from a project long ago, it is steel gutter screen that you can buy in roles at the hardware store.

The rear of the Hilux cab is open except for the window as the normal bed attaches at this opening. So with some styrene that I cut to fit and glued in place with Tenex. It will start to look more like the stock cab. Doing some bondo work to clean up mold and glue lines, once it's all sanded out it should be looking good.

Added some bondo to smooth out the rear.

Had to notch out the rear so it will sit onto the chassis.

Test Fit body to check for clearance.

Rear Fence

Around each stakebed is a wood fence/gate that you can remove, piece by piece.

Here is a picture of the gluing process.

By drilling a hole in each post and gluing a threaded shaft, they will be easy to attach and remove.

One side complete.

Holes drilled for mounting.

One side mounted holes drilled for next side.

Both sides complete.

Holes for rear gate.

Getting rear gate mounted.

Rear Bumper

I needed some type of Rear bumper, so using a Hilux bumper was a good choice. I just needed to make a bracket to get it mounted up at the right height. Adding tail lights was a must, since this was kind of a project type truck using Highlift rear housings and lenses were chosen. Mounted them to the back of bumper on their sides.

painted the lenses red.

Drive Shaft

Since I extended the wheelbase, I needed a longer drive shaft. I used 2 TXT-1 Drive shafts to create one extended unit. By cutting the shaft off one of the drive shafts and using a piece of steel brake line, I could weld a longer shaft.

Mocked up so I could cut the length of the shafts before welding.

Closer shot of brakeline couple joint.

After welding it up and a bit of rough cleanup.

Body Finishing

I wanted this truck to show some use and wear. Drivers door in primer.

Passanger door is Red and fender in primer.

Another shot at drivers side.

Just another shot of some details.

Scale Accessories

To keep going with this scale build, I needed something to fill up the bed and go with my theme. Added a few tool holders for the tools I created (Rake - Shovel - Broom).