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Building the Avante 2011 By: Joe Anderson

First Some history: Originally released in 1988, the Avante was known in the industry as having advanced engineering and geared toward racing. Since its original release in 1988 there have been three other Avante releases in the R/C product line.

1988 Item#58072 Avante
- Original Avante release, with innovative features you can still find on today's R/C vehicles.
1990 Item#58085 Avante 2001
- This release was more of a sport version of the original, with more plastics used in place of metal parts. This kept the cost down and allowed a larger fan base. Body was redesigned with subtle changes for the 2001 named version.
2007 Item#58387 Avante Mk II DF03
- This was a DF03 chassis with a body/color that resembled the Avante scheme. It shared no parts with the previous two releases.
2011 Item#58489 Avante 2011
- This release is the closest to the original release of the Avante, in fact in ways an improved version of the original. Improvements to the Avante include such things as; Cast parts being replaced with machined parts, Shocks have been upgraded to today's technology, fiberglass chassis plates replaced with Carbon Fiber plates and more.

Opening the box (drum roll please...)

Bring on the Tamiya box art.

Opening the box, we get old school blister packs.

On the left we have Blister Pack A

In the middle we have body parts and wheels. You will notice the Bonus DF03 wheels added to the kit, so if you want to run standard nyloc nuts instead of the retro Cam-loc wheels.

On the right we have Blister Pack B.

First we have to check out the manual. You can also HERE

Tools and items needed

Required (Sold Separately)

Phillips drivers #2 (large) & #1 (small)
Flat driver (med flat bladed driver)
Needle nose pliers
Side Cutters
Body/Decal scissors
Hobby knife
CA glue
Thread lock (gel type)

Additional that I used (Sold Separately)

Rags
Denatured Alcohol (Cleaning)
Airbrush
Masking Tape

Additional that is included in kit

Anti-Wear Grease
Ball Diff Grease
Ceramic Grease
Damper Oil (blue)
Sponge Tape
Double sided tape
Zip ties
8&7mm wrench
10mm wrench
1.5mm Hex wrench
Box Wrench

Step #1

Let's get building...

We start by assembling the rear gearbox housing and motor plate. Cut the sponge tape as indicated in manual and make sure metal plate is clean before applying.

Step #2

Mount the motor to mount and pinion, making sure that grub screw rests on flat of motor shaft. I would recommend use of a little thread lock on all screws in step #2 (Though manual does not mention it).

Mount motor assembly to rear gearbox housing and lightly tighten as we will need to set gear mesh later.

Step #3

The Lower and Upper deck are now made of carbon fiber. Originally they were of a fiberglass material, though you could purchase the OP (option part) of carbon fiber to add to your Avante.

This step is more of a process, first we need to seal the edges of the carbon fiber. I found it easier to set the lower deck in my vise and run a bead of CA glue down one edge and let it dry before flipping it to do all sides. It takes some time and you may find your self skipping ahead during the drying time.

After you get all the edges sealed and dried, its time to mount the rear gearbox housing to the lower deck. Please note the use of thread loc on the screws.

Step #4

On this step take note of a couple items, make sure you remove the nub of plastic on (A1) and the ending direction of (BB7). (Note: (BB7) will be used multiple times on this build and the end direction is important every time)

Step #5

While assembling front gearbox halves, note the notch in (PF2) and its mate (H4) also the use of (BB7) once again.

Also before you tighten everything up check the direction of (B5)

Step #6

Mounting the front gearbox will not require thread lock as we are screwing into plastic. But please note of the use of some grease on the two screws (BF4) when mounting (E11).

Step #7

Use of the (H9) jig will speed up assembly, also making sure that you coat the gears with Anti-Wear Grease is a must. Please note the direction of how the 8T gears (PD1) are placed for proper assembly. Make sure you remove excess plastic flashing from (H8) & (H6).

You know have both diff gears assembled. make sure you put your (H9) jig in a safe place in case you ever need to do some work on the diff gears.

Step #8

Assemble the rear counter gear and set all your rear gears in the rear gearbox. Make sure you add grease to the gears and spin them awhile before closing it up with (B4).

Step #9

After assembly of your front gears and the ball bearings, slide (BE5) shaft in to hold (H2) gear, use a small piece of masking tape to hold pin temporarily in place.

Add (B2) cover after applying grease and spinning gears to coat them.

Step #10

Make two rear suspension links, note the 5.5mm spacing and direction of ends. Use supplied 10mm wrench to tighten and adjust.

Mount your rear suspension links, you might want to add a tiny drop of thread lock to the upper (BH7)'s.

Step #11

Assembling the center differential/Slipper/Spur gear, make sure to add diff grease to balls and thrust washers. Add some Anti-Wear grease to bearing (PE3) and a dab of thread lock to (PE1). Do not over tighten (PE1).

The disk spring (PE4) setup must be correct for the assembly to work, I have created a drawing to point out the direction of springs.

Step #12

Apply Anti-Wear grease to the prop shaft ends, then drop the center Diff in the rear gearbox while inserting the prop shaft between the front rear gearboxes as pictured.

Time to adjust the mesh of the pinion and spur. I use the old Tamiya method by taking a piece of header card material from a screw bag and place it between the spur and pinion with a small spin of a couple gear teeth. Place a little tension on motor against the spur and tighten. Then move the gears in the opposite direction to disengage header card, this will give you a great mesh of these gears.

Assembly complete, add some grease to the center diff/Spur and spin to spread the grease around all the teeth.

Step #13

Much like Step #3 apply a bead of CA around the upper deck carbon fiber edge and allow to dry. (image from step #3)

After upper deck is dry, attach (PC4) & (PC1) with screws and a dab of thread lock. Then lay the upper deck on chassis and secure with screws pictured in manual.

Step #14

Assemble gear unit (H5), add some grease and set it in the rear gearbox. Place cover (B3) over gearbox while pressing down tighten screws. Add a dab of thread lock to (BC1) screws. Remember to note direction of (BB7)

Assemble rear damper stay, add a little thread lock to (BC2) screws.

Mount the rear damper stay, add a little thread lock to (BF4) screws.

The rear damper stay was never offered in carbon fiber as an SP (spare part) or OP (option part).

Step #15

Mount rear stabilizer rod and rear guard. Note direction of (BB7)

Step #16

Assemble rear arms, note direction of ball ends.

Create two universals, add Anti-Wear grease to ball and pin. Add a dab of thread lock to (BS3) grab screw.

Assemble rear axles, add a dab of thread lock to (BS2) screws. Original Avante had spline axles and wheel hubs, these have been replaced with today's pin and clamp type.

Step #17

Attach rear arms making sure you have them on the correct sides.

Step #18

Add Anti-Wear grease to splines and insert diff shafts in the correct sides.

Add Anti-Wear grease to universal balls. Insert axles on to arms and fasten with step screws (BL2)

Both sides completed

Step #19

Make two rear suspension upper links. Note the 8mm spacing and directions of ball ends and stabilizer guide positioning. Mount links to rear gearbox, do not forget the (BA5) spacers and add a dab of thread lock to (BA2) screws.

Step #20

Setup front stabilizer bar.

Install rocker arms and radius arm protector.

Mount stabilizer to front bumper.

Mount front bumper to chassis adding some thread lock to all three screws.

Step #21

Step #22

Make two front arm rear links, note 1mm spacing.

Mount arms, add thread lock on (BA2).

Closeup of mounted front arm.

Step #23

Assemble front axles. Use Anti-Wear grease on the ball and pin of universals. A dab of thread lock on (BH1) threads.

A dab of thread lock on threads of (BS2)

Step #24

Anti-Wear grease on the splines of the front diffs, before inserting them.

Attach front axles. Thread lock on (BL2) and Anti=Wear grease on the ball of universals.

Front axles completed.

Step #25

Make two upper front suspension links. Take note of the 5mm spacing.

Mount them up

Step #26

Make two steering links, note teh 16mm spacing.

Start the steering bridge.

Attached steering arm.

Mount steering bridge.

Step #27

Create two rear dampers. make sure to clean up (Q7) pistons. Be careful not to damage piston rods with pliers, either wrap rods or use non scratch pliers.

Just like the rear, make two front dampers.

Step #28

Remove air from shocks with a damper air remover or by manual instructions.

Step #29

Add springs and use (Q3) or (Q4) for damper tension adjustments.

Step #30

Mount rear dampers.

Step #31

Install spring and mount front dampers.

Step #32

Wire up electronics, center Steering servo and add servo saver.

Step #33 - 34

Install servo mounts and assemble steering linkage.

Mount ESC, receiver and switch with the provided double sided tape.

Mount servo and attach linkage.

Step #35

Ok lets dive into the wheels and tires. We know normally the kit wheels use a Cam-Loc technology.

As a special bonus this kit comes with DF-03 wheels as well. You can see the kit wheel (left) is smaller in diameter and both larger than front DF-03 wheels and smaller than rear DF-03 wheels. Though you could possibly stretch the Avante tires over the DF-03 wheels, it is not recommended and that is not why they are a bonus. These wheels have been included to give you the option to run today's type tires on your Avante and not loose the color of the wheels for your kit.

Stock tires and wheels.

Stock tires and foams.

Assembled now glue a bead around the wheels with CA.

Step #36

Assemble Cam-loc's.

Step #37

Mount rear wheels and tighten Cam-loc's.

Step #38

Mount front wheels and tighten Cam-loc's.

Step #39

Painting the cockpit, starts with a washing the plastic with water and dish soap. After drying we continue with a couple coats of primer.

Then we add a couple coats of black.

We hit the sides and back with light grey. Body is painted in flat red, with black belts and silver buckles. I did the gloves in flat white and a bit of black on the wheel he is gripping. Hit the bars and the tops of wheel with a little orange.

Started adding decals.

Decals all added and mounted cockpit on chassis.

Step #40

First you need to clean inside of body pieces with dish soap and water and allow to dry. This will remove any oils from the manufacturing process or handling.

Trim body, you can use body scissors or a hobby knife. I generally treat this as a rough cut, I will then go in and clean it up with a dremel.

Step #41 - 42

Mask the front window, so it remains clear after paint is applied. I use Tamiya masking around edges and corners, then the center bulk area is filled with Tamiya 40mm tape or 3M painters tape.

Apply light coats of PS-16 Metallic Blue, the first coat is important as it seals up the edges of the taped area. Do not use heavy coats and allow each coat to dry before applying the next..

Step #43

I used a cutting mat and hobby knife to cut out decals.

Body mounted after adding decals.

Step #44

Fit under-cowl with vehicle upside down and attach with body clips .

Step #45

Assemble damper support links.

After fitting body on chassis, install front support link.

Then add rear support link.

Body set and ready to go.

Step #46

Assemble wing and mount.

Step #47

Mount wing, attach front pivot then choose wing angle before locking pin is installed.

Step #48

By flipping the vehicle upside down, removing the two front body clips holding the lexan under tray you are able to lift the under tray to access the battery compartment. (E5) and a body pin will hold your battery in place.

Step #49

Assemble front bumper bumper. This is an added feature and you do not need to install, it will give you added re-enforcement. But it will take way from the great Avante aesthetics.

MOD

The one mod I had planned for the Avante was to add a protective shield to the the bottom under tray. I know Lexan is pretty tough, but anything added will make it last longer under use. Tamiya sells a protective clear seal for bodies and under chassis. It is mostly clear so it does not take too much away from your work (That is until it starts to get buffed or scratched, but you then peel it off and start all over).

The Tamiya clear protection shield (Item #53469), comes rolled on a tube. You can cut out whatever shapes you need on your vehicle.

First I needed to protect the two rails and provide the under tray a little slide type coating.

By cutting two strips and applying them I was on my way.

I decided to cut a few shapes out for the sides with the extra material I had.

Seal is applied and does not take much away from the aesthetics.